Crossing into Bolivia – Cruzando a Bolivia

There are many things about the Chaco that seem like a mystery. Chief among them for adventurous tourists may be how to cross the Paraguay-Bolivia border.

Getting to the border:
On the Paraguayan side the closest town to the border is Mariscal Estigarribia. It is 230kms from Mayor Infante Rivarola (the official border crossing), about 140 kms from Filadelfia (the most accesible of the region´s mennonite colonies), and 530 kms from Asunción. There are several bus lines that make the journey from Asunción up the Trans Chaco Highway to Santa Cruz, Bolivia. Stel Turismo (tel. Asunción: 021 551 647) and Yacyretá (tel. Asunción: 021 551 725) make the most frequent trips. Should you choose to visit the mennonite colonies before heading to Bolivia you will have to make your way to Mariscal Estigarribia (Nasa, tel. 0491 432492, runs daily buses from Filadelfia) in order to catch a Santa Cruz bus. Tickets to Santa Cruz cost the same (about 40 USD) whether you depart from Asunción or points north. I have been told that if you are heading to Tupiza or Uyuni in Bolivia it is easier to go to Santa Cruz and take a bus from there than to attempt to make a connection in Villamonte.

Getting your passport stamped:
All buses headed to Bolivia make an obligatory stop at the well-lit 24 hour customs (“aduanas”) checkpoint in Mariscal Estigarribia. Most buses from Asunción arrive between the hours of 2am and 4am. While the bus is waiting at customs it is your responsibility to get stamped into or out of Paraguay. This is done at the Immigration Office housed in a small building next door (tel: 0494 247 315). This office is open 24 hours a day. If it appears closed you might have to bang on the door loudly – there is a back room immigration officials stay in during downtime.

Regarding Visas:
Tourist visas for Paraguay are not for sale at this, or any other, border crossing. If you need a visa for Paraguay (attention, Americans) you must obtain it before attempting to enter the country.

Some things to consider before you take off:
The entire Paraguay side of the journey (to Bolivia) occurs at night. Mariscal Estigarribia is about 8 hours from Asunción and about 2 from Filadelfia – you may want to set an alarm just in case. Also, given that it will be dark, you won´t be able to see any of the Chaco. If you want to experience the Paraguayan Chaco consider taking a trip beforehand to Filadelfia or Parque Nacional Teniente Enciso and then going to Mariscal Estigarribia to catch the bus. Make arrangements with the bus agency ahead of time so they know to reserve you a seat. The bus drivers are allowed to sell you tickets when they arrive to Mariscal Estigarribia.

If you plan on catching the bus from Mariscal Estigarribia consider staying at Hotel Laguna (0494 247 358) beforehand. It is about 1.5 kms from the Immigration office. Hotel Laguna also functions as an office of Yacyreta bus line. If you buy your ticket with them ahead of time (in the afternoon at the latest)they will notify the Yacyreta office in Asunción so the bus can pick you up at the hotel. If you choose to do this it is extremely important to go to the Immigration Office ahead of time and obtain your exit stamp. By the time it gets to Hotel Laguna the bus will already have passed the Immigration and Customs – so make sure you have your stamp before getting on the bus at Hotel Laguna.

If you´ve crossed the border between Paraguay and Bolivia please share your experience and any tips for future travelers.

Hay muchos misterios en el Chaco. Para los turistas aventureros quizás el misterio más grande sea como cruzar la frontera de Paraguay y Bolivia.

Como llegar a la frontera:
La ciudad más cercana a la frontera del lado paraguayo es Mariscal Estigarribia. Queda a 230 kms de Mayor Infante Rivarola (el cruce oficial en la frontera misma), a 140kms de Filadelfia (el más accesible de las colonias menonitas de la región), y a 530 kms de Asunción. Hay varias empresas de transporte que hacen el viaje desde Asunción hasta Santa Cruz, Bolivia, por la Ruta Trans Chaco. Stel Turismo (tel. Asunción: 021 551 647) y Yacyretá (tel. Asunción: 021 551 725) hacen los viajes más frequentes. Si deseas visitar las colonias menonitas antes de seguir hacia Bolivia tendrás que ir hasta Mariscal Estigarriba (Nasa, tel. 0491 432492, tiene salidas diarias desde Filadelfia) para tomar un colectivo rumbo a Santa Cruz. El precio del viaje no varía si te subes en Asunción o por el camino. Según lo que me han contado si uno busca llegar a Tupiza o Uyuni en Bolivia es más fácil ir hasta Santa Cruz y hacer el trasborde allí que intentar hacer la conexción en Villamonte.

Consiguiendo el sello en tu pasaporte:
Todos los colectivos rumbo a Bolivia hacen una parada obligatoria en el puesto de control de Aduanas en Mariscal Estigarribia. Está abierto las 24 horas del día y está bien iluminado de noche. La mayoría de los colectivos de Asunción llegan entre las 2hs y 4hs de la madrugada. Mientras el colectivo es procesado en Aduanas es tu responsabilidad conseguir tu sello de salida de o entrada al Paraguay. Esto se hace en la Oficina de Migraciones que se encuentra en un pequeño edificio al costado de Aduanas (tel: 0494 247 315). La oficina está abierta las 24 horas del día. Si parece estar cerrado quizás tengas que golpear fuertemente – hay una habitación en la parte trasero donde los oficiales de migraciones descansan cuando no hay actividad.

En cuanto a Visas:
Visas para Paraguay no estan a la venta en esta oficina ni en cualquier otro cruce fronterizo. Si necesitas una visa para Paraguay (atención, americanos) tienes que obtenerlo antes de intentar entrar al país.

Algunos temas a considerar antes de viajar:
El tramo paraguayo del viaje a Santa Cruz se hace de noche. Mariscal Estigarribia queda a 8 horas de Asunción y a 2 de Filadelfia – quizás quieras poner una alarma por si acaso. Además, dado a que será de noche, no podrás ver mucho del Chaco. Si quieres tener la experiencia chaqueña será mejor hacer un viaje a Filadelfia o Parque Nacional Teniente Enciso de antemano y después tomar el colectivo en Mariscal Estigarribia. Coordiná con la empresa de antemano asi ellos saben que deben reservarte un asiento. Los choferes tienen permiso para vender pasajes al llegar a Mariscal Estigarribia.

Si piensas subir al colectivo en Mariscal Estigarribia considera quedarte en Hotel Laguna (0494 247 358) de antemano. Queda unos 1.5 kms de la oficina de Migraciones. Hotel Laguna también opera como la oficina de la empresa de transporte Yacyreta. Si compras tu pasaje con anticipación (esa tarde a más tardar) coordinarán con la oficina de Yacyreta en Asunción para que el colectivo te recoga del hotel mismo. Si haces esto es extremadamente importante que ya hayas ido a la Oficina de Migraciones para obtener tu sello. Cuando llegue al Hotel Laguna el colectivo ya habrá pasado por Migraciones y Aduanas – asique asegurate de tener tu sello antes de subir al colectivo en Hotel Laguna.

Si has cruzado la frontera entre Paraguay y Bolivia por favor comparte tu experiencia y cualquier consejo para futuros viajeros.


Posted in Travel Info - Para Viajeros Tagged with: , , , , ,
19 comments on “Crossing into Bolivia – Cruzando a Bolivia
  1. This is life says:

    Very nice write-up…detailed.

  2. Anonymous says:

    Lots of valuable information! Makes me wonder whether you learned all the tiny details about the Immigration Office through the school of Hard Knocks. Glad you survived, and were apparently able to make it to a laptop to pass this along!

  3. Marty says:

    It took the trip to and from Paraguay and back to Bolivia. This is from the way back (The way to Paraguay beforehand was too long to put here.)

    July 19/20, 2006: We started the trip back across the Chaco, by night. We crossed the wide Paraguay River, which would have been a sight to see if it hadn’t been dark.

    We were woken up by our arrival in Mariscal Estigarribia at three in the morning and stood in line to wait for the border stamp business. My relief was great when we appeared to be turning into the place where we were shaken down by the drug police a week previously, but then passed it by.

    As it got light we saw the nothingness of the hot upper end of the Chaco, the highway that would take years to be completely paved. One of the Paraguayan workers extended his arms towards us as our bus passed, with a sad grin: take me with you! The dust of the Chaco invaded the bus and we were covered in the stuff.

    I was a bit sad that we had left Paraguay behind. After we had re-crossed the border we stopped in a little town called Villa Montes. It was very hot and we poured a bucket of water over our head and arms.

    The Chaco went on forever! We got to Santa Cruz at eight o’clock at night.

  4. Vuelos a Asuncion says:

    Gracias por la información. Muy útil
    Thanks for the information. Very useful

  5. Dennis says:

    Quiero otro cruce aun mas dificil en apariencia y he estado leyendo un poco. Quiero cruzar por mas al norte del PN Defensores del Chaco, por un lugar q llaman Estancia San Miguel, desde Ea San Miguel son 17 km hasta un lugar en Bolivia llamado Fortin Ravelo q tambien esta en medio de la nada. De ahi mi idea es subir hasta un pueblo en la chiquitania boliviana llamado Robore. Se q por ahi no hay transporte publico, pero creo q de a poco puedo llegar a Estancia San Miguel. Las preguntas son:
    1- Como hago los 17 Km entre Ea Sn Miguel y Fortin Ravelo (esporadicamente lei q hay tours q hacen ese trayecto onda aventura, pero quisiera agarrarlo solo para ese tramo de ser posible).
    2- Como me muevo de Fn Ravelo a Robore? ya del lado boliviano.
    3-. Donde haria los tramites migratorios de lado y lado?
    4- Q tan problematico seria (creo q es obvia esta ultima :D)
    Saludos y muchas gracias!

  6. paraguay says:

    MMmmmmm, empecemos por tu última pregunta:
    4- Q tan problematico seria (creo q es obvia esta ultima 😀 )
    Creo que va a ser bastante problemático este viaje. Por esos lugares no hay nada – sólo estancias privadas. No podrás contar con almacenes para abastecerte de comida ni lugares donde te puedas albergar por el camino. Si tienes suerte podrás ir quedándote de estancia en estancia pero la gente que trabaja allí tiene los víveres contados así que no sé que tan generosos van a poder ser contigo. Es un riesgo – personalmente no te lo aconsegaría. Si puedes ir en moto sería un poco más seguro porque allí no estarás contando tanto con la suerte de encontrarte con alguien quien te lleve por el camino.

    1- Como hago los 17 Km entre Ea Sn Miguel y Fortin Ravelo (esporadicamente lei q hay tours q hacen ese trayecto onda aventura, pero quisiera agarrarlo solo para ese tramo de ser posible).
    Como ya sabes por allí no hay transporte público así que lo único que tienes como opción es ir a dedo – reitero lo anteriormente dicho – es un riesgo ya que la zona no es muy transitada.

    2- Como me muevo de Fn Ravelo a Robore? ya del lado boliviano.
    Desafortunadamente desconosco el lado boliviano del Chaco. Te sugiero poner un post en los foros de Lonely Planet – hay muchos mochileros que se aventurarn por Bolivia, quizás alguno sepa más sobre esta zona.

    3-. Donde haria los tramites migratorios de lado y lado?
    Del lado paraguayo tendrías que hacerlos en Mscl. Estigarríbia – es la única opción en la región. Si fuera vos vería la posibilidad de hablar con alguien en la base militar – ellos conocen bien la zona y quizás te podrán dar más datos sobre como hacer el viaje. Pero casi seguro te dirán lo mismo que te aconsego yo – mejor buscar otra ruta.

    Si de veras TIENES que hacerlo de esta manera iría con la mayor cantidad de provisiones possible – agua, comida, carpa, etc. Pero a mi me parece bastante riesgoso.
    Buena suerte!

  7. Jaime says:

    Este viaje lo hice muchísimas veces en los buses Yacyreta, y la verdad es que era algo complicado, porque en ese tiempo la Transchaco era solo un sendero de arena-polvo.
    El viaje entre Santa Cruz de la Sierra y Asuncion demoraba minimo 27 horas y hasta 46. En Yacyreta proveían las comidas básicas y solo era necesario portar pasaporte vigente o documentos validos de identidad bolivianos o psraguayos. Los tramites son sencillos.
    Recomendaría tener cuidado con la policía de frontera en ambos lados, porque permanentemente están buscando sacar dinero de alguna parte y se inventan algún cobro. La solución es viajar con lo necesario y básico solamente.
    La experiencia es maravillosa.

  8. Si el puesto aduanero esta a 240 km de la frontera real, con Bolivia, quien controla mi pasaporte mas adelante, no tienen una oficina de Migraciones en la frontera?

  9. paraguay says:

    El control de pasaporte para los que cruzan a Bolivia se hace en el puesto de migraciones en Mariscal Estigarribia. Las personas (no sé si son del ejercito) que están en la frontera con Bolivia no están habilitados para hacer control de pasaporte para salida o entrada al Paraguay. No sé si hay agentes de migraciones bolivianos en la frontera o dónde se encuentran si es más allá….usted sabe?

  10. rafael says:

    gracia por tu informacion viajo para bolivia y quiero ir hasta paraguy luego lescuento como me fue

  11. Francesca says:

    I crossed the Bolivian border 2 days ago and it’s been a pretty hectic journey! I would recommend it only to those of you who don’t mind extremely uncomfortable situations and kind of know where are heading to.
    From Tarija in Bolivia, there is NO direct bus, even though I’ve been advised the opposite several times by different sources.
    The only bus from Tarija to Vallegrande left at 2pm and got to destination at midnight after a long bus break down and extremely difficult weather conditions, dropping me in the middle of nowhere in vallegrande, alone, with my backpack soaking wet from the aweful rainy journey on their very scruffy bus. I eventually waved at a taxi that took me to the Terminal safely for just 5 bolivianos. The tiny terminal was deserted so I decided to wait by the hotel opposite the road. Thankfully 3 very nice people got to the terminal and sat there waiting for the same bus with me and keeping me company. I had no ticket. All bus companies in Santa Cruz would never pick up the phone and in Tarija nobody knew how to cross over to Paraguay, not even the tourist information office! I had no choice but to head to Vallegrande and find out by myself at whatever time of the night or day. A lady from the ticket office got there at 2.30am to advise the bus would be late and to sell extra tickets where possible. I got mine for 50USD (60 from Santa Cruz) and paid in USD without a problem. They accepted Bolivians and guaranis as well. One bus (trans Rosario)arrived at 5am full. They told us a second one was only 30 minutes away and we could have got on that one. they were both very old and shanty looking. my Stel turismo bus had no AC, my seat was far enough from the toilet but the smell was so strong that every passenger kept a scented tissue on their nose to cover the disgusting smell of pee for the whole journey. The bus was full of soil that would just float around every time the bus would bounce avoiding holes in the supposedly TransChaco paved road. The custom controls were very intense. they opened every single little zip in our bags looking for drugs and asked us a lot of questions. Narco Dogs searched our bags for drugs too. we got documents checked at least 10 times during the whole trip. Stamping in and out has been pretty easy and people directed us very well to the immigration offices both sides of the border. the heat was unbearable but the views spectacular! I wish we had stopped at sunset to take a picture of the beautiful chaco landscape! the journey from vallegrande lasted 24 hours. from tarija about 34. it’s definitively cheaper and more adventurous to cross the border this way but I think i’ll remember it for the rest of my life! food on board was pretty awful consisting of raw rice and a cold chicken wing. we had the chance to stop a few times to go to the toilet at least. unless you are dying from going to the toilet you’d better keep the bus toilet door shut to avoid poisoning the air even more! good luck everyone!

  12. paraguay says:

    Francesca, Thanks so much for sharing your input and experience! “Riding a bus through the Chaco” sounds a lot more fun than it actually is. I’m sure people will be happy to see your thoughts before embarking on this particular adventure. Not sure why the Bolivia/Paraguay route buses are so bad! Aerosur runs flights from Santa Cruz and La Paz to Asuncion regularly – more money to fly but for many it is a worthwhile investment!

  13. Rick Stewart says:

    I traveled from Asuncion to Santa Cruz in early May 2013. Wanting to see some of the Chaco in daylight I first bought a ticket to Filadelphia (90,000 Guaranies). It left at 6 am, before city buses were running, so I took a taxi (39,000 Guaranies with tip) from my hostel (Black Cat).

    The bus (NASA also known as Golondrina) was good enough, as was the road. There were many stops to pick up/drop off people and packages. We arrived in Filadelphia at about 1:30 pm. Before reaching the agency/bus stop we toured quite a bit of Filadelphia, and Loma Plata, enough that I saw no need to do more site seeing there, so I immediately boarded the bus to Mariscal Estibarribia (20,000 Guaranies). It was another NASA/Golondrina bus, it was obviously waiting for us to arrive before it departed, the driver/ayudante approached me and asked me where I was going, when I replied Mariscal he politely showed me the way.

    I think it was on this part of the day’s trip that I saw a jabiru (large, colorful stork) in a small pond right by the side of the road. I’m not a bird watcher, but the thrill was more than enough to justify whatever extra time and money I expended on the trip.

    The bus toured most of Mariscal Estibarribia, including the military base, before stopping at the agency/bus stop at about 4:30 pm. It was on the same ‘block’ as the Municipalidad, and Hotel de la Laguna (the real name of which is Hotel de la Estancia, but since there is a small lagoon in front of it everyone calls it … you get the point), and in fact the bus stopped in front of the ‘supermarket’ next to the Municipalidad, but no one told me to get off so I didn’t. The extra walk around the block was not much to complain about.

    Wanting to sleep before catching the early morning bus I took a room at the Hotel de la Estancia/Laguna (70,000 Guaranies w/air conditioning, because the 50,000 without was not available). Let’s call it basic, although I did get two clean towels and an unopened package of soap. One of the towels came in handy to block the large crack between the door and its frame, successfully stopping an anticipated mosquito invasion.

    I asked the owner/manager of the hotel if he could get me a bus ticket to Santa Cruz. He knocked on the door of one of the rooms, no one answered. Another fellow sitting nearby said the first fellow had left town and was not going to be back for a few days (my Spanish is sufficient for expressing my wants, insufficient for understanding native speakers when they converse with each other, I could have got this wrong). The owner/manager told me I was out of luck (I could have got that wrong, too, but he definitely was unable to help me).

    I walked down Route 9 (were it not for the lagoon, the hotel would also be on Route 9) to the Immigration office (20 minutes). The friendly man there, when told I needed a bus ticket, called up the owner/manager of the hotel. When he received no satisfaction he called up the bus company in Asuncion and asked them to save me a seat on the bus. No problem, they said, no problem, he said to me.

    Then he offered to let me sleep in a camacita at the immigration office, which I reluctantly declined having already paid for my hotel room.

    I walked back toward the hotel. Immediately next to the ‘supermarket’ was a small food establishment blaring very loud music. I noticed they had wood fired rotisserie chicken so I grabbed a table, a beer (10,000 Guaranies) and half a chicken (20,000 Guaranies). Not long thereafter the loud music was much more enjoyable and, in fact, complimented the chicken (moist and tasty) nicely.

    I stopped in the ‘supermarket’ and bought an apple, a pear, three bananas, some crackers, and some cookies (very few Guaranies). I went to bed.

    The nice man at immigration told me the bus would arrive at 3 or 3:30 am. I got up early and arrived at immigration at 2:30 am. Two women arrived on a motorcycle, one of them got off. She turned out to be reporting for duty at the office, and was equally nice. I was stamped out of Paraguay within a few minutes, at which point the bus arrived. It parked at ‘adouna,’ right next door to immigration. People got off and walked over to immigration, I walked over to the bus.

    A nice man looking like someone affiliated with the bus company (Stel Turismo) asked me what I needed. I said a ticket to Santa Cruz. He sold me one for 200,000 Guaranies, which is less than the 290,000 I believe I would have paid in Asuncion. Various military officials came, with a dog, to look for bad things. This took quite a while, but apparently nobody had any bad things because everyone got back on the bus and the military didn’t take anything off the bus. Neither the military men nor the dog ever searched any of my luggage.

    We left immigration/customs at about 4 am. It started getting light at about 6 am. The rest of the voyage I shall not relate – it was uneventful. I saw all but 2 hours of the Chaco countryside, which was interesting although only changing slowly and thus not exactly spell binding. We were served breakfast (cookies and juice) and lunch (rice and chicken), neither of which were either filling or thrilling, both of which were appreciated. The bathroom was atrocious by American standards – strike that, it lived up to Greyhound standards – but about what you would expect in a country with a per capita income, adjusted for purchasing power parity, of $5,099 annually. No one had scented tissues over their noses.

    We arrived in Santa Cruz at about 6 pm.

    For the extra money and time I spent, I would definitely do it again, and would not be disappointed even if I did not see another jabiru.

    P.S. There was another incident, but you probably won’t experience it. On the first bus, on the first day, the driver slowed down for four large vulture type birds feasting on something dead in the middle of the road. Three flew away. One flew into the windshield of the bus, driver’s side, severely cracking it and, presumably, dying in the process.

    P.P.S. This probably made the other three vulture type birds happy.

  14. paraguay says:

    Hello Rick,
    Thank you for sharing your experience! I’m glad you enjoyed the trip! The jaibiru are so majestic, you really get a rush of energy when you first see one!

  15. Sol says:

    Vivo en Asunción y me interesaría viajar a La Paz, pero busqué información al respecto y lo que encontré es que los viajes se dirigen hacia Santa Cruz (en colectivo, no sé cómo sería en avión). ¿Los paraguayos precisan de pasaporte? ¿O solo les basta su cédula de identidad? ¿De Santa Cruz tengo que comprar otro pasaje para viajar desde ahí hasta La Paz? Saludos!

  16. paraguay says:

    Hola Sol,
    En cuanto a la visa/pasaporte te sugiero que te contactes con la embajada de Bolivia en Paraguay ya que los requisitos pueden cambiar en cualquier momento. Te sugiero que si es posible y cae dentro de tu presupuesto viajes en avión en vez de colectivo – parece que Aerosur ya no existe pero creo que este tramo lo puedes hacer con Copa/Taca/Avianca. El viaje en colectivo es bastante cansador. ¡Pero sí es una aventura! ¡Buena suerte!

  17. Eloise says:

    I was able tto find gooԁ advice from your blog ρosts.

  18. Chris says:

    Hi, I am also interested to cross the border from Bolivia to Paraguay between Robore and Lagerenza, but together with friends in a 4×4. Does anybody know about the road conditions and how much time you need to calculate from Robore to the border and then on to Lagerenza and further to Mariscal Estigarribia? Thanks for your comments!

  19. paraguay says:

    I recommend that you post about this question in the Lonely Planet or other traveler forums to get up to date information on road conditions. In general I highly recommend you take enough supplies of food, water, fuel, and cash. And spare tires. I cannot emphasize enough how isolated and underpopulated this area of Paraguay and Bolivia are and how essential it is to be prepared in case of any emergency.

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Curing a paraguayan hangover / Curando la resaca paraguaya
Say it loud(speaker) pt.1 - ¡Dilo en altavoz! pt.1
The 4 R's of Environmentalism in Paraguay - Las 4 R de la Ecología en Paraguay
<!--:en-->Non-Guaraní Paraguayan Slang<!--:--><!--:es-->Jerga Paraguaya (no en Guaraní)<!--:-->
PY Agenda: Winter Vacation! - ¡Vacaciones de invierno!
7 Paraguayisms in
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The Countdown to Christmas - La Cuenta Regresiva a la Navidad
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Cocos & Coquitos
Radio So´o: Lugo´s impeachment - El juicio de Lugo
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Fried Delights - Delicias Fritas
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Paraguay on Film / Paraguay en el Cine
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Discovering Paraguay on
PY Agenda: Nature Lovers edition - Para los Amantes de la Naturaleza
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The rain in Paraguay - La lluvia en el Paraguay
Semana Santa Cooking Vocabulary - Vocabulario para Cocinar durante Semana Santa
Advice for Newcomers p3 - Consejos para Recién Llegados p3
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Presents for People who Miss Paraguay - Regalos para Aquellos que Extrañan al Paraguay
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PY Agenda: Día del Niño (Children's Day)
The New Gs. 2,000 Bill - El Nuevo Billete de Gs. 2,000
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Most Useful Guarani Words - Las Palabras Más Útiles en Guaraní